Vietnam by Moto Days 32-33: Overnight crazy in Hanoi

Rob and I hit traffic on the far outskirts of the city. Since we entered on the opposite of Hanoi from the Old Quarter where we were staying, we had to brave the crazy traffic through the majority of the city. I filmed driving through the weaving mass of motorbikes and cars but with the wide angle lens, it doesn’t capture the close proximity of the other bikes and the speed at which they pass you. The stoplights were the scariest part as you’re part of a mass of motorbikes that’s stopped and trying to start moving forward all at once. Low speed handling is one of the most difficult parts of the motorbike driving since you’re not as stable so trying to get going again among the throng trying to pass you is unnerving. Rob kept his cool, but afterwards he adopted the strategy of hanging back at lights and keeping us out of the mass if possible.

Here’s a hyperlapse of the different parts of our drive from Pu Long to Hanoi. The sped up version of Hanoi views more like what it feels like to be in the traffic.

If you want to experience the constant honking, here’s some video as we head through Hanoi with original sound.

That night we had booked the Funky Jungle Hostel. We were going to get a private room, but the dorms were so much cheaper $5 per person per night that we gave them a try. This hostel has free beer from 6-7pm, then again from 8:30 – until the keg’s gone, which turned out to be a lie. Rob and I were both given top bunks; these were very high and didn’t have great handholds at the top. This was okay for the daytime, but would suck getting up and down in the middle of the night while partially asleep. Since it was already pretty close to 6 pm when we arrived, dinner was a doner kebab (from one of the 3 stands within a block of the hostel) and an amazing bag of donuts with a sweet yellow center that we saw a number of locals buying. Treats in had we returned to our hostel for free beer and promptly met three guys from the Seattle area. AJ, Taylor and Alex had all graduated from Gonzaga and worked for one year to save money before quitting to do some extended worldwide travel (Their fancy blog).  They were also traveling by motorbike and were planning to head to Halong Bay/Cat Ba the next day. We were planning on heading that direction one day later, however, a look at the forecast had us altering our plans to leave the next day. We decided to ride with them the next day, leaving around 10 am when our laundry would be ready.

As per the usual, I went to work on the blog in the dorm after beer hour while Rob stayed out to meet folks. The guy with the bunk under mine was back in the dorm and it was clear that he had been there awhile. Apparently his current gig was getting other travelers to come to a casino with him and to get “$20 of free play.”  We didn’t see/hear him again until 4 am when he returned drunk and disorderly, yelling about how a cabbie ripped him of everything and stumbling around. Thankfully, he passed out soon enough and stayed that we until we left despite Rob dropping our USB charger on his bare chest from the top bunk and the cleaning crew servicing the room. Rob and I agreed that we would not be returning to the Funky Jungle on our next visit to Hanoi.

We met up with the AJ, Alex and Taylor and managed to get on the road around 10:15 am aiming for the 3 pm Tuan Chau public car ferry to Cat Ba Island. This was the last ferry of the day, so missing it would mean a night in Halong City.


Rob and the bike ready to leave Hanoi for Cat Ba.